This updated a-frame trellis design features the “replaceable feet” like its predecessor, but is now anchors to the raised bed for more stability.
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One of the good ways to take advantage of vertical growing space is by using a trellis . The a - frame type of treillage has two side and gets its support from the diametrical side of the trellis , as well as the weight of the plant themselves . The “ replaceable feet ” thatmy first trellis designfeatured provide additional support by being ground in the soil . You would think this would be enough to keep it from falling over . One or two of the stiff Texas windstorms convert me otherwise . I ordinarily cease up hammer in stakes at the four points where the feet went into the filth .
This new interpretation , or upgrade , takes reinforcement in a different direction . The elementary divergence is that one of the sides of the trellis run straight up , perpendicular to the ground . It not only expend it ’s “ feet ” buried in the soil for support , it now has “ anchor ” that seize it to the side of the raised bed .

Although you may sure enough put the fencing material cloth on both side , I ’ve opt in this case to only use it on one side . The length of the “ slant ” , or lean side can be set to whatever distance you need , and will determine where in the bed the trellis will go into . The advantage of have a wider slant ( and therefore a longer side ) is that you may grow plant under it that can do good from a little shade once the climbing plants are established .
This project will produce a trellis approximately 6 foot magniloquent ( on both sides ) by 3 feet all-embracing . Refer to the picture when go through the steps below , as they may give you a better word picture of the construction .
The inclination of things you ’ll ask :

• 8 firearm of 1″ x 4″ x 6′ Sir Henry Joseph Wood boards ( I used whitewood)• A 12 - 14″ opus of 2 x 4 , or a remnant opus from one of your previously - made bed frames• 24 – 1 1/2″ # 8 Sir Henry Joseph Wood screws• 10 – 2″ Sir Henry Wood screws• 3′ x 7′ of computer hardware cloth or other “ fence ” material• 2 – 3″ metallic element hinges ( I used ace with a satin nickel finish)• Saw – manual of arms or electric• Drill and drill bits• Staple gun – manual of arms or electric• Wire cutters• Pencil• Tape measure• Square triangle
Construction
1 . cut of meat 2 of the 6 - foot boards in half to get four 3 - human foot pieces . Note : we ’ll refer to the two sides of the trellis as “ Side A ” and “ Side B ” .

SIDE A ( the angled side )
2 . Attach two of the 6 - animal foot display panel to one of the 3 - foot small-arm with wood screwing , coordinate them together at the edge ( PHOTO A ) .
3 . On the diametric end of those 6 - foot boards , measure off and brand about 6 - 8″ from the edge . sequester the third 3 - foot piece to the two 6 - foot boards at the score you made ( PHOTO B ) .

4 . From another 6 - human foot board , cut a musical composition 10 - 12″ retentive . Measure and mark the middle of it . Then , cut the composition diagonally in the middle . This creates the two “ foot ” piece .
5 . impound the two foot pieces made in STEP 4 at the remnant of the 6 - foot board , below but touching the 3 - fundament cross firearm . The feet should be sticking out about 6 - 8″ ( PHOTO C ) .
SIDE B ( the straight - up side )

6 . Attach two of the 6 - infantry add-in to one of the 3 - pes piece with Natalie Wood screws , aligning them together at the border .
7 . From the same 6 - metrical unit plank used in STEP 4 , cut one more 10 - 12″ piece . Again , amount and mark the middle , then cut the spell diagonally in the midsection .
8 . Using a 2 x 4 , or a leftover piece from one of your lift seam boards , cut two pieces about 8″ long . They should be about 4″ spacious . Let ’s call these the “ blocks” . bill : This is a VERY important step . If this piece is thin than the provoke layer ’s side you ’re mounting the trellis to , it wo n’t tally properly .

9 . measure out the length of the pes pieces made in STEP 7 and mark that on the two 6 - foot boards ( from STEP 6 ) , measuring from the border . impound the two block pieces made in STEP 8 to the two 6 - groundwork boards , at the marks you made ( PHOTO D ) .
10 . Align the top of the foot man to the top of the engine block piece and attach it . Repeat for the other leg ( PHOTO E ) .
11 . sequester the last 3 - understructure while across both of the leg , above the feet plane section ( PHOTO F ) .
Photo/Illustration: Greg Holdsworth (All photos)
commit IT TOGETHER
12 . associate both side of the trellis together with the two 3″ hinges . I measured about 3″ from each bound and attached the flexible joint on that mark ( PHOTO G ) .
13 . wrap out enough silver screen / fencing material to cover one side . Using your staple gun , staple it to the build .
TIPS : seize the four corners of the fencing material material to the Sir Henry Wood framing first . That way , it is held in place while you are staple . Also , pull out the fencing material tight as you are stapling it to the frame , otherwise it might sag in the middle .
Your climb veggies will love you for this undertaking !
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